Stella Pardo
La passion d’une autodidacte
Près de dix ans sont passés depuis que Cinthya Guerrero a fondé la marque Stella Pardo. Un parcours marqué par les femmes ; tout d’abord la grand-mère de la créatrice qui, chaque Noël offrait à ses 24 petits enfants des écharpes tricotées par ses soins. Une grand-mère qui a tout naturellement inspiré son nom à la marque.
Et puis la mère qui a toujours travaillé dans le monde du textile au Pérou et que le hasard de la vie a amenée à s’installer avec sa fille Cinthya en France quand cette dernière n’avait que 9 ans.
Et enfin les « mères tricoteuses » que Cinthya a découvertes lors d’un voyage dans son pays natal. Des femmes qui, grâce au soutien de Stella Pardo font perdurer un savoir faire qui aurait pu tomber dans l’oubli si la jeune femme engagée ne s’était pas prise d’une passion pour la technique de la maille.
Baby Alpaca, l’or des Andes
Pour ses pièces de maille, la créatrice a choisi une matière noble à la hauteur de l’expertise de ses petites mains tricoteuses; la fibre Baby Alpaca.
L’Alpaca est un camélidé d’Amérique du Sud cousin des lamas. Il vit dans les Andes péruviennes à très haute altitude (3000 à 4500 m). La fibre d’alpaga est considérée comme étant l’une des plus fines et luxueuses du monde. Quatre fois plus résistante que celle du mouton, elle est plus chaude, imperméable et surtout extrêmement soyeuse.
L’appellation Baby Alpaca ne concerne pas l’âge de l’animal mais renseigne sur la finesse de la fibre. Une fibre « Baby Alpaca » peut provenir d’un animal adulte doté d’une toison très fine.
Outre ses propriétés tactiles, la fibre de Baby Alpaca est la matière première qui possède le plus grand spectre de tonalités naturelles ; une douzaine environ allant du beige clair au marron foncé en passant par le camel. Cela permet à la créatrice de jouer sur ces tonalités sans avoir forcément avoir recours au procédé de la teinture. Et quand c’est le cas, la teinture utilisée est naturelle, principalement à base de plantes.
Aujourd’hui Cinthya Guerrero partage son temps entre son atelier-showroom parisien et les villages andins où elle fait la tournée de ses tricoteuses dont les plus chevronnées ont donné leur nom à certains modèles de la collection.
KER MER a rencontré Cinthya dans son atelier à deux pas de la Madeleine.
KER MER : Qu’est-ce qui est venu d’abord ; l’envie de créer ou de faire travailler les mères tricoteuses ?
Cinthya Guerrero : C’est un mélange des deux. Le déclic s’est produit lors d’un voyage « humanitaire » que j’ai fait au Pérou. J’avais fait une collecte d’habits, de jouets, de stylos… que j’ai été distribuée dans des villages reculés du Pérou. C’est là que j’ai découvert le savoir-faire des tricoteuses.
Cela m’a fascinée et je me suis dite que c’était dommage que ce savoir-faire ne soit pas connu en Europe. Depuis un moment j’envisageais de fonder une marque. Mais pour être honnête, à l’époque j’étais plus dans une démarche éthique et humaine qu’éco-responsable. Ce n’est que plus tard que j’ai été sensibilisée à l’écologie. Mais tout cela se rejoint puisque l’éco-responsabilité préserve l’environnement pour les générations futures.
KER MER : Adepte de la slow fashion, quelle est votre recette pour concevoir des pièces intemporelles?
CINTHYA GEURRERO : Je fais en fonction de mes envies… c’est instinctif (rire). Je ne suis pas les tendances. Je ne regarde pas les défilés. Car dans ce métier on a une bonne mémoire visuelle et on peut s’approprier les idées des autres inconsciemment. Pour créer, je pars des matières. Ce sont elles qui m’inspirent. Je suis uniquement la tendance concernant les couleurs.
KER MER : Est-ce vos clients et acheteurs viennent vers vous pour le côté écolo et le côté style ?
CINTHYA GEURRERO : Pour le moment, les gens viennent majoritairement pour le style et non pas pour la démarche éthique et écologique. Néanmoins notre travail n’est pas uniquement de vendre. Je m’efforce de sensibiliser les acheteurs sur l’aspect éco-responsable de la marque afin qu’ils le transmettent à leur clientèle. Je leur explique le processus de fabrication ainsi que les matières. Du coup les acheteurs sont ravis d’en apprendre plus sur notre démarche et de pouvoir expliquer à leurs clients en quoi nos pièces sont exceptionnelles.
KER MER : Suivez-vous le calendrier de la mode pour présenter vos collections ?
CINTHYA GEURRERO : Depuis un an j’ai décidé de faire quatre collections par an. Des collections capsules qui me permettent de raconter l’histoire de chaque pièce. Cela met mieux en valeur les créations. Car quand on suit le calendrier de la mode, les pièces sont « noyées » dans une grande collection et c’est dommage.
KER MER : Outre la fibre d’Alpaca, quelle matière utilisez-vous pour l’été ?
CINTHYA GEURRERO : J’utilise le Coton Pima biologique. C’est un coton rare que l’on ne trouve que dans certaines régions du Pérou et des USA. C’est rare et donc il aussi cher que le cachemire !
KER MER : Pourquoi avoir donné le nom de votre grand-mère à la marque Stella Pardo ?
CINTHYA GEURRERO : (rire) Tout d’abord parce que je l’adore. J’ai une admiration sans borne pour ma grand-mère. Elle est une source d’inspiration pour moi. On l’avait forcée à se marier avec une personne de son rang, mais elle s’est enfuie car elle voulait se marier par amour. Elle a eu 9 enfants, elle a divorcé deux fois. Elle est devenue professeure pour pouvoir élever ses enfants toute seule. Tout cela au Pérou, un pays où c’était mal vu pour une femme de divorcer et de vouloir mener une vie indépendante. Elle a 90 ans aujourd’hui et tricote depuis toujours ! (rires)
Rola
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