Le principe créateur sans couture de Quoï Alexander
KER MER parle durabilité et super pouvoirs avec le créateur talentueux basé à Paris, Quoï Alexander
Pourquoi le principe créateur sans couture?
Installé à Paris depuis quatre ans ce jeune créateur californien est comme un Ovni posé sur la planète mode. Inutile de chercher une machine à coudre dans on atelier, il fait de la « couture » sans couture !
En 2014, lors de son defilé de fin de promotion à Central St Martin’s, à Londres, le Californien Quoï Alexander a présenté une collection dans un tissu créé à partir de boues ramassées à travers l’Europe, mélangées à du latex. Aucune couture n’a été utilisée – les pièces ont été decoupées au minimum, puis tissées ensemble.
Cinq ans plus tard, il a son propre studio à Paris avec son label éponyme. Sa créativité et son innovation l’ont amené à remporter le Mercedes-Benz Étoile et l’Oréal Paris Fashion Grant. Kanye West vient de l’emmener aux États-Unis pour discuter d’une collaboration. http://www.quoialexander.com
Actuellement, il développe sa première gamme de sacs à main en édition limitée, utilisant les mêmes principes Zéro Déchet qu’il applique à ses vêtements; le motif est découpé dans des chutes de cuir de luxe A4 ou A3, avec un minimum de découpage, puis combiné à des matières inattendues, telles que le satin ou le latex. Le sac à main est formé de plis en origami. Il devrait être lancé prochainement, durant l’été 2019.
KER MER : Quelle est l’importance de la durabilité pour vous en tant que créateur de mode?
QA : “Dans mon travail, j’ai toujours evité de parler de durabilité. Il y’a une différence fondamentale entre être durable et sembler durable. Plus la créativité est verticale, plus les échanges sont compliqués. Le processus de recyclage de matériaux solides pour en créer des nouveaux peut également utiliser d’énormes quantités d’énergie. Le meilleur chemin à suivre est souvent flou, il n’y a pas de gains de recyclage.
KER MER : Pourtant, la durabilité est intégrée à votre processus de création depuis votre collection pour le spectacles des diplômés?
QA : “Mon principe créateur est No-Sew, ou Pas-de-couture. Cette approche primale remonte aux origines de la création de vêtements, c’est là ma source d’inspiration pour arriver à des choses nouvelles. Dans la mode, tout ce qui peut être fait a été fait. C’est pareil avec la musique, tout le monde joue de la guitare, donc tout sonne pareil. Je veux inventer un nouvel instrument. C’est mon approche de la mode “
KER MER : Quelle était votre inspiration initiale?
QA : “Je suis un designer qui aime les ordures! Lorsque j’étudiais au centre de Saint-Martin, je suis allé à une exposition à la Tate et j’ai découvert une salle remplie de sculptures étonnantes, faites de poussière. Ma première collection a été inspirée d’une forêt, et pour créer un effet recyclage, j’ai conçu une veste biodégradable avec des milliers de graines dans la doublure. Lorsque vous avez fini de la porter, elle pourra retourner à la terre – le cercle de la vie. Je respecte la nature. Nous ne pouvons pas nous en déconnecter complètement “.
KER MER : Vous rejetez donc la technologie dans votre travail de conception?
QA : “Il y a une raison pour laquelle le développement durable sonne faux dans la mode et le design. Avec un design respectueux de l’environnement, l’esthétique est souvent la première chose à sacrifier. On perd tellement de matière qu’on en vient à desservir la cause durable et renverser la situation. Nous avons besoin d’un peu d’anti-technologie. ”
KER MER : Le top tissé de votre première collection est incroyablement complexe et met en valeur le meilleur de votre technique. Quels matériaux avez-vous utilisés et combien de temps a-t-il fallu pour les produire?
QA : “Ce top est tissé de chenilles, de plumes, de tapis de bain et d’objets trouvés. Cela a pris environ 150 heures à fabriquer. “
KER MER : Dites-nous en plus sur vos tissus incroyablement beaux et votre technique créative.
QA : “Créer des tissus est mon super pouvoir. Personne au monde n’utilise ma technique de tissage. J’essaie de concevoir le tissu complètement, pour pouvoir tout contrôler de A à Z. Ce super pouvoir est une malédiction et une bénédiction – Le vrai défi, c’est de diffuser les pièces et de les faire connaître. Je veux tout réinventer, depuis la conception, jusqu’à la fabrication, pour arriver à la perfection, à chaque fois. ”
KER MER : Avez-vous un projet de rêve?
QA : “Ce serait d’avoir un budget illimité et de pouvoir concevoir une maison, un jardin, tous les meubles, tous les vêtements dans les placards, les sacs, etc., pour créer une chaîne complète. J’ai des univers parallèles en moi et mon plus grand projet serait d’avoir le budget pour les explorer. ”
Jean
Traduction : Nadine
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