LIVING BLUE, A LA RECHERCHE DU VRAI BLEU
KER MER rencontre Mishael Aziz Ahmad,
PDG de Living Blue, Bangladesh à Maison d’Exceptions, Zone expérimentale de haute créativité, Première Vision.
La première chose qu’évoque le Bangladesh dans notre mémoire commune, ce sont les conditions de labeur et le travail à la chaîne pour le prêt-à-porter.
Une entreprise locale a décidé de transformer ce cliché en avantage.
Créée en 2005, Living Blue est une entreprise sociale co-gérée par Nijera Cottage, Village Industries et CARE Social Ventures, qui a pour mission de former les femmes et les hommes des milieux ruraux, afin de leur donner les moyens de s’émanciper des villes et du travail en usine.
Depuis son lancement, Living Blue a consacré le retour de la production du True Bengal Indigo et en est devenu le principal exportateur. On dénombre 800 variétés d’Indigo, dont seules 10 produisent le colorant naturel tant recherché.
Indigofera tinctoria ou ‘indigo authentique’ est le produit le plus pur et pousse naturellement au Bengale. Cela fait près de 100 ans que les paysans ont cessé de l’utiliser comme colorant naturel, mais des fermiers du nord du Bangladesh perpétuent son emploi pour la rotation des cultures en l’utilisant comme fertilisant pour ses nitrates et sa biomasse.
Cet Indigo unique pousse en abondance de façon naturelle et les villageois sont particulièrement habiles pour l’utiliser dans leurs tissages et assemblages textiles.
Michael Aziz Ahmad, PDG de Living Blue, témoigne : “Notre pays bénéficie d’une histoire incroyablement riche dans l’art du tissage et dans la fabrication des textiles.”
En plus de l’art de fabriquer l’Indigo, Living Blue a formé les habitants à de nouvelles techniques venues du Japon : Shibori, teinture artisanale et ancestrale qui consiste à nouer des tissus avant de les plonger dans un bain de teinture, ou encore Nuishibori, Itajime et Tsutsugaki.
“Nous mettons en valeur le savoir-faire local. L’artisanat est un écrin pour nos produits les plus aboutis.”
Le marché l’a bien compris. En 2018, Living Blue a exporté une tonne d’Indigo naturel aux États-Unis, volume le plus important d’export d’Indigo du Bangladesh depuis 1860. On l’a vu participer avec succès à de nombreux salons et foires professionnelles.
“Nous avons participé à Greenshowroom, durant la Berlin Fashion Week.” La marque a attiré l’attention des Galeries Lafayette à Paris et de nombreux acheteurs internationaux ont suivi, attirés par la qualité des teintures naturelles.
Les créations collaboratives incluent Charlotte Moss, Natascha von Hirschhausen, Atelier Baba et la créatrice française, Anaïs Guéry, qui s’est rendue à Rangpur pour développer des créations avec les artisans locaux.
“… C’est un échange d’idées, de savoirs-faire et de techniques très riche” déclare Ahmad. “Nous avons le savoir-faire, la technique, la matière-première et la teinture Indigo ; Anaïs a collaboré grâce à son imagination, sa capacité créative pour aboutir à un produit très contemporain, ultra-moderne et chic.”
Loewe a également suivi. Une de ses grandes prêtresses, Sona Rani Roy, fut parmi les 26 finalistes du prix de l’artisanat Loewe 2017 avec “White on White-Moyur” sélectionné parmi des milliers de productions.
En 14 ans d’existence, Living Blue a fait renaître la production locale d’Indigo, donnant un élan de vie économique à toute une partie de la population rurale et aux communautés qui en dépendent. C’est à présent une étoile qui brille dans le ciel bleu de la mode mondiale.
Website: www.livingbluebd.com
Contact: livingblue.nijera@gmail.com
Jean Grogan
traduction Nadine Badra
203 Comments
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