Patrick Brenac

TEXTILES NATURELS ET TEINTURE NATURELLE, ELEMENTS DE REFLEXION POUR DES DEVELOPPEMENTS INDUSTRIELS
Le développement de produits textiles en fibres naturelles à l’aide de teintures naturelles apparaît comme une logique dans une perspective de protection des ressources naturelles, de valorisation de productions durables et de création de modèles économiques plus respectueux de l’homme et de l’environnement.
A cet effet, différents éléments doivent être pris en compte afin de fournir des clés de réflexion à vos développements. Nous vous en livrons certains ci-après, qui pourront être complétés.
RAPPELS DE BASE
Les teintures naturelles peuvent mettre en œuvre 3 classes de colorants:
Colorants à mordants :
On utilise un fixateur appelé “mordant” qui va créer un complexe entre la fibre et les molécules de colorants.
Les mordants les plus répandus sont à base de sels métalliques (aluminium, fer, titane plus récemment) mais il est aussi parfois possible d’obtenir une fixation correcte avec d’autres molécules (tanins par exemple).
Sur fibres cellulosiques on utilise en général les deux effets en effectuant 1 bain de tanin (souvent à base de noix de galle, donc nommé “engallage”), puis 1 bain de mordant, puis le bain de teinture.
Sur fibres protéiniques, on pratique en général 1 bain de mordant puis le bain de teinture.
Colorants de cuve :
C’est le cas de la plupart des teintures à l’indigo naturel qui nécessitent une étape de réduction (la molécule réduite est sous une forme peu colorée qui peut se fixer aux fibres) puis une étape d’oxydation (en s’oxydant, la molécule retrouve sa forme colorée bleue).
Différents procédés de réduction-oxydation existent, mettant en œuvre des ingrédients naturels ou synthétiques.
Colorants substantifs :
Quelques colorants naturels ont la capacité de se fixer directement sur la fibre (par exemple cachou, brou de noix, les tanins…). Ils peuvent être utilisés en “fond” ou en teinture (mais les coloris sont limités).
S’AFFRANCHIR DES REFERENTIELS ACTUELS?
Pour développer des textiles en couleurs végétales, il convient de garder à l’esprit que :
– Les couleurs naturelles ont été utilisées pendant plusieurs millénaires;
– Leur usage a décliné depuis 150 ans environ (seulement) au profit de couleurs de synthèse MAIS EGALEMENT du développement de procédés, de molécules, de Produits Auxiliaires de Teinture, d’un important savoir-faire qui a contribué à améliorer les teintures de synthèse et leur utilisation;
Aujourd’hui, nous parlons trop souvent de référentiels issus de ces décennies de recherches (sur les coloris, les gammes, les solidités, les procédés…) qui, si la comparaison s’arrête là, s’avèrent souvent en défaveur des couleurs naturelles.
Pour autant, l’histoire de l’utilisation industrielle de couleurs naturelles repose sur des nuanciers importants, bien maîtrisés, des solidités, procédés et organisations de production éprouvés.
Dans une perspective de développement de couleurs naturelles pour des usages industriels, il sera donc souhaitable :
– de ne pas se baser uniquement sur des référentiels actuels;
– de tirer parti des larges nuanciers et procédés anciens tout en considérant les usages et contraintes de production actuels,
et ainsi,
– dans un premier temps, de sélectionner des coloris et solidités qui conviennent pour un usage textile donné;
– dans un second temps de mener des travaux de R&D pour améliorer les procédés et les produits en teinture naturelle (formulation, PAT naturels ou d’origine naturelle…).
En conclusion de cette idée (mais cela peut également constituer le point de départ d’une réflexion sur les textiles en couleurs naturelles), rappelons que les consommateurs sensibles au naturel sont aussi prêts à accepter des performances un peu moindres ou contraintes d’entretien plus élevées contre la garantie (et le plaisir) de porter et d’utiliser un textile totalement naturel.
LA QUESTION DES MORDANTS
Teinture avec mordants
L’utilisation de mordants métalliques est souvent un argument mis en avant contre les teintures naturelles (métaux lourds, rejets…).
IL FAUT SAVOIR QUE :
– les mordants nocifs pour l’homme ou l’environnement (étain, chrome, plomb par exemple) ne sont plus utilisés. Le cuivre peut parfois l’être mais il est souhaitable de limiter son pourcentage afin de limiter son impact environnemental (nous n’en utilisons pas);
– les mordants utilisés actuellement (aluminium, fer, titane par exemple), sont considérés comme ayant peu d’impact sur l’homme ou l’environnement;
– selon la pureté des mordants employés (présence de métaux lourds à l’état de traces), certains grades peuvent ne pas être compatibles avec les labels et référentiels biologiques ou écologiques MAIS;
– Il est possible de sélectionner des produits de grade plus élevé, possédant des seuils d’impuretés plus bas (ces produits sont plus chers à l’achat toutefois).
Teinture sans mordants métalliques
Il est possible de réaliser des teintures sans mordants métalliques, par exemple en utilisant les propriétés des tanins, des colorants substantifs, seuls ou en combinaison avec les colorants naturels préférant des mordants.
Il faut :
– dans un premier temps, effectuer des tests de solidités afin de sélectionner des combinaisons conformes aux usages;
– dans un second temps, mener des travaux de formulations coloristiques dans le but d’améliorer les performances techniques à l’aide d’extraits ou d’ingrédients naturels. Ceci résultera nécessairement sur des gammes de coloris plus limitées et (peut-être) sur des performances également plus basses.
Remarque : Concernant cette question, on évoque de plus en plus l’utilisation de biomordants (plantes accumulatrices d’aluminium par exemple). Outre le fait que cet usage est peu envisageable actuellement en conditions industrielles, on peut s’interroger sur le fait que ces plantes peuvent également accumuler des métaux lourds (du sol, comme la plupart des végétaux) à des seuils qu’il serait souhaitable de vérifier.
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Les extraits végétaux colorants entrent assez facilement dans les labels Ecologiques et Biologiques (textiles ou d’autres secteurs).
Nous avons fait certifier de nombreux colorants végétaux selon le label GOTS, par exemple. Une partie de nos produits est conforme au référentiel GOTS 4.0. Ce référentiel est arrivé à échéance fin 2017.
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Initialement, nous n’avons pas souhaité le renouveler pour les raisons suivantes : il nous apparaît que le GOTS ne met pas suffisamment en valeur les colorants naturels (quasiment pas d’ailleurs); que 95-98% des textiles certifiés GOTS sont fabriqués à partir de colorants de synthèse;
donc, qu’en payant pour le GOTS, il nous semble contribuer à la communication des colorants de synthèse GOTS ET ne pas informer correctement les consommateurs (qui achètent des produits labellisés GOTS en pensant GOTS = Naturel);
POUR AUTANT:
Certains clients et partenaires insistent pour que nous renouvelions notre certification GOTS; nous avons donc entrepris le renouvellement début août 2018 et nous allons le poursuivre. Les produits n’ont pas changé et cela devrait donc se faire assez rapidement. Nous allons donc demander le GOTS 5.0 pour une sélection de nos produits, dans un premier temps.
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En parallèle, nous souhaitons également faire pression sur l’organisme GOTS pour que la future version mette mieux en valeur les produits GOTS-naturels. In fine, le développement d’un label garantissant l’usage d’ingrédients NATURELS semble être un point à creuser.
Patrick Brenac
Patrick Brenac
Patrick Brenac, docteur en substances naturelles (Université Montpellier II) puis postdoctorat à Cornell University (USA), est issu d’une famille de vignerons. Il travaille sur des substances naturelles et leur valorisation depuis 1990 – dont 20 ans sur les couleurs végétales. Il a initié, participé et géré de nombreux projets de R&D, de transferts industriels et d’innovations, a mis en place différentes filières de production. Il a co-fondé la société Green’ing avec sa femme Isabelle Castel Brenac, ingénieur ISIM (Polytech Montpellier), spécialisée en Sciences et Technologies de l’Eau et en Management Environnement et Qualité.
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