Anaïs Guéry revisite le Kimono
Le Kimono – Le premier vêtement écologique au monde
À l’initiative de la Mairie de Paris, dix artistes et artisans Français et Japonais ont eu l’opportunité de participer à un échange afin de partager leurs savoir-faire respectifs.
C’est dans ce contexte qu’Anaïs Guery s’est rendue à Kyoto. Elle y découvre avec fascination des techniques ancestrales que les Takumi se transmettent depuis des générations.
En japonais Takumi désigne les artisans qui possèdent une maîtrise totale des techniques et de la création.
Diplômée de l’Ecole des Arts Décoratifs et de l’Institut Français de la Mode, Anaïs Guéry aurait pu persévérer dans une carrière toute tracée qui l’a menée des ateliers de Christian Dior à ceux de Balenciaga avant de se retrouver styliste responsable du chaîne-et-trame féminin chez Cacharel.
Lassée du rythme trépidant des collections, Anaïs décide de se retirer dans son propre atelier en périphérie de la capitale pour se consacrer à sa passion ; la teinture végétale en général et l’indigo en particulier.
Une démarche aux antipodes de l’univers pressé de la mode tant il faut du temps et de la patience pour penser, mettre au point et intégrer les techniques de teinture végétale naturelles. Sans compter le temps nécessaire à l’élaboration de ces pièces aux couleurs et aux reflets inimitables.
Une démarche expérimentale qui l’amène à collaborer régulièrement avec d’autres artisans passionnés ; des collaborations qui la font voyager aux quatre coins du monde.
KER MER a pu rencontrer Anaïs Guery à son retour de Kyoto où elle a travaillé auprès de Masahiro Inoue un maître encadreur de Kakemonos, des peintures ou calligraphies sur soie ou sur papier que l’on accroche aux murs.
Cela fait plusieurs générations que la famille de Maître Masashiro Inoue est investie dans cet art ancestral.
KER MER : Comment s’est déroulée votre collaboration avec maître Masahiro Inoue?
Anaïs Guéry: Nous avons établi un échange créatif en travaillant chacun sur une pièce. J’ai été fascinée par la composition et les textures du Kakemono réalisé par Maître Masashiro Inoue ; une œuvre abstraite qui vous incite à la méditation.
Tout comme le travail de la teinture indigo, on est dans une quête permanente de l’émotion à travers la couleur.
Au Japon, on présente traditionnellement le travail artistique sur des rouleaux de papier ou de tissu. Je suis partie d’un modèle d’une de mes vestes pour concevoir un Kimono en respectant les proportions exactes de cette pièce emblématique du vestiaire nippon.
Maître Masahiro a monté mon Kimono sur un papier très fin dans un patchwork qu’il a collé sur le support à l’aide d’une colle naturelle.
KER MER : Que vous inspire le Kimono?
Anaïs Guéry : Il m’a poussé à la réflexion ; j’ai réalisé que le savoir-faire de la fabrication des Kimonos est en voie de disparition alors et que le Kimono est le vêtement le plus écologique au monde ! Sa coupe est immuable ! Seuls les motifs et les tissus changent, mais jamais la coupe.
Donc le Kimono ne se démode jamais !
En occident, on achète un vêtement, puis un an plus tard il passe de mode. Du coup on utilise des matières bon marché qui ne son pas vouées à perdurer dans le temps.
Alors que s’agissant du Kimono, non seulement il ne passe pas de mode, mais ses proportions obéissent à des mesures très précises qui ne génèrent pas de chutes de tissus inutilisées !
KER MER : Quels tissus avez-vous utilisé?
Anaïs Guéry : Un gazar de soie* ainsi qu’un panneau aux motifs dorés appelé Kinran en japonais.
Au Japon le Kinran est uniquement utilisé pour encadrer les Kakemonos ; comme ces derniers sont placés dans la partie sombre de la pièce afin d’inciter à la méditation et la contemplation, le Kinran est utilisé sur les bordures du cadre pour apporter de la luminosité. Quand maître Masahiro a vu que j’ai choisi d’utiliser ce tissu au centre du Kimono, il est devenu fou ! (rires)
KER MER : Votre Kimono a une allure très contemporaine !
Anaïs Guéry : Au Japon, quand vous vous séparez de votre kimono, celui-ci est désassemblé réaffecté à une autre utilisation, mais n’est jamais détruit !
En Occident, nous produisons des textiles qui sont fait pour durer 10 à 15 ans et ceci dans un style qui passe de mode au bout d’un an seulement. Cela m’a amenée à repenser notre mode de consommation. Je souhaite inverser ce processus afin de créer des vêtements auxquels nous tenons.
Gazar de soie* : utilisé uniquement en Haute Couture, ce tissu de soie est fabriqué avec des fils à double torsion procurant une très grande tenue.
Jean
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