Mode et Nature – Vers une Nouvelle Ère Éco-Responsable ?
Pendant longtemps Stella Mc Cartney a fait figure d’Ovni dans un univers où la fourrure et surtout le cuir faisaient partie intégrante du vestiaire de toute fashionista qui se respecte. Peu à peu, les études et les publications aidant, les consciences se sont réveillées et l’on s’est rendu compte que l’industrie de la mode était devenue la deuxième industrie la plus polluante au monde après celle du pétrole!
Cette prise de conscience a non seulement amené certains créateurs de mode à explorer des techniques et matériaux éco-responsables mais a également mis en avant des créateurs qui n’ont jamais cessé de promouvoir des savoir-faire ancestraux notamment liés aux teintures naturelles. C’est dans ce contexte que le Victoria & Albert Museum a dédié une exposition au thème inédit : « Fashioned from Nature » ou comment la mode a été façonnée et fascinée par nature. Cette exposition qui s’est s’achevée le 27 janvier 2019 retrace la relation complexe qui s’est établie depuis quatre siècles entre la mode et la nature ; en découlent des inspirations géniales.
Mais le revers de la médaille est que la demande constante de matières premières parfois rares finit par être nocive pour l’environnement : raréfaction des matières premières, diminution de la biodiversité, non respect du bien-être animal et humain, changement climatiques, usage des intrants chimiques, pollution des sols et de l’atmosphère, inégalité à l’accessibilité de l’eau…
Cet état des lieux incite aussi bien les professionnels de la mode que les consommateurs à s’interroger sur la façon dont on pourrait protéger la nature d’un développement industriel à outrance au profit de la croissance.
L’exploitation des ressources naturelles ; un long héritage.
Au XVIIe et XVIIIe siècle en Europe, les vêtements de luxe sont l’apanage d’un petit nombre de privilégiés. On importe à grand frais soie, coton, mousseline mais aussi des plumes d’oiseaux rares, des carapaces de scarabées… On commence déjà à ressentir les prémices d’une mondialisation qui sera vite galopante.
Une mondialisation incarnée dans une magnifique robe à crinoline du milieu du XVIIIe siècle réalisée dans un mélange de soie en provenance d’Italie, d’Espagne et du Moyen-Orient, ainsi que de lin d’Europe du nord.
Woman’s cape; black curled cock feathers; Auguste Champol;
French; c.1895.
Cette pièce d’exception est également ornée de métaux précieux importés de Bolivie avec des rajouts d’hermine originaire de Russie et d’Amérique du nord. Mais tant que la demande est limitée à une élite, la nature restait préservée.
Si ce n’est que l’émergence de l’industrie à l’aube du XIXe siècle a rendu la mode accessible à tous. Une mode de moins en moins onéreuse qui puise sans limite dans les ressources naturelles tout en mettant en œuvre de nouvelles techniques pour remplacer les matériaux bruts. C’est le cas des teintures synthétiques qui ont un impact néfaste sur l’écosystème.
Les Prémices d’une mode éco-responsable
Après avoir dressé un état des lieux pour le moins catastrophique, l’exposition « Fashioned from Nature » se penche sur des solutions en faveur d’une plus grande durabilité dans l’industrie de la mode.
On y découvre des vêtements et accessoires durables et séduisants à la fois, à l’instar de cette robe Calvin Klein arborée par Emma Watson à l’occasion du Green Carpet Challenge et réalisée à partir de bouteilles de plastique recyclées.
Cette exposition met aussi en valeur la faculté de l’homme à créer de nouvelles matières grâce à la technologie en partant de matières naturelles.
Stella Mc cartney est une pionnière dans ce domaine depuis la création de sa marque en 2001.
Un mode qualifiée d’éco-responsable et Vegan (pas de matières en provenance d’animaux) puisqu’elle a créé des tissus nouveaux avec les fabricants, en recyclant des matières déjà utilisées ou des matières naturelles issus de productions éco responsables.
On assiste à d’autres démarches innovantes : L’industrie Italienne produit plus de 700 000 tonnes de peaux de citrons chaque année. En 2017, la marque Salvatore Ferragamo a lancé toute une collection de vêtements faits à partir de la “fibre d’agrume », un matériau innovant dérivé du jus de citron.
Mais ce n’est pas le seul matériau innovant. Le Pinatex en est un autre exemple. Les cultures d’ananas générant 40 000 tonnes de déchets de feuilles annuels, ces derniers sont maintenant réutilisés pour créer un matériau textile résistant et non tissé, destiné à faire des accessoires ou des vestes.
La peau du poisson Piracucu, espèce protégée par le gouvernement Brésilien, est également utilisée par la marque éco-responsable Osklen dans ses collections.
Elle est achetée auprès de fermes dont l’activité est régulée de telle façon à ce qu’elle génère de l’emploi aux communautés locales. Une source d’alimentation durable tout en préservant l’écosystème. (voir nos vidéos dans notre instagram).
La société de textile japonaise Nuno a réussi quand à elle à créer de la soie à partir de l’enveloppe protectrice des cocons de soie. Ces fibres, grossières et difficiles à utiliser dans les machines modernes de tissage, sont généralement considérées comme des rebuts. Nuno a réussi à développer un processus pour créer un nouveau matériau qui entre dans la confection de certains de ses modèles commerciaux.
Le mouvement vers une attitude saine et responsable semble amorcé. Alors que des industriels et des créateurs engagés continuent à imaginer des solutions pour réaliser des vêtements de qualité qui durent et dont l’impact sur la nature n’est pas nocif, les Millenials sont en passe de devenir les portes étendards d’une d’un nouveau mode de consommation qui prône la « slow fashion ».
Rola & Martina
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