Tuomas Merikoski fait des vagues avec AALTO
“Aalto signifie vague en finnois ; dans le sens d’une manière innovante de faire les choses. C’est en parfaite synergie ave KER MER.”
Tuomas Merikoski est venu de sa Finlande natale à Paris pour effectuer un Master à L’insitut Français de la Mode (IFM). Il commence sa carrière chez Louis Vuitton avant de rejoindre Givenchy en tant que directeur artistique. Il lance sa marque Aalto en 2014. Aalto signifie vague en finnois. Tuomas a toujours eu pour ambition de “partir de rien pour créer une maison basée sur les valeurs de la Finlande.”
KER MER: Quelles sont les caractéristiques des valeurs de la Finlande ?
Tuomas Merikoski: Les Finnois bénéficient d’un niveau d’éducation très élevé. Nous avons toujours été sensibles à l’environnement. Nos valeurs sont basées sur la durabilité, l’honnêteté et l’intégrité. La Finlande est un jeune pays qui n’est pas lesté de traditions. Nous n’avons pas de réelles strates sociales ni famille royale. Nous sommes dénués de conformisme et nous allons de l’avant.
KER MER: Qu’en est-il de votre créativité ?
Tuomas Merikoski: Bien que nous n’ayons pas de réelle industrie de la mode en Finlande, nous sommes extrêmement créatifs. D’ailleurs c’est le cas dans beaucoup de pays nordiques, à l’exception de la Suède dont sont issues des marques créatives telles que Acne Studios, Cheap Monday et H&M. En Finlande nous avons des coutumes particulières qui débouchent sur une réelle force créatrice.
KER MER: De quelle sorte de coutumes particulières s’agit-il?
Tuomas Merikoski: Par exemple, nous n’avons pas de tournures de phrases de bienséance. Nous considérons cela comme superficiel. Nous avons un langage direct qui peut être perçu comme choquant. En contre partie, nous sommes plutôt réservés et timides. L’alcool a un rôle désinhibiteur pour nous. Alors tout devient fou ! Mais nous sommes fiers de ce que nous sommes avec nos bizarreries
KER MER: Du coup, intégrer une maison de couture française a du provoquer une choc des cultures pour vous!
Tuomas Merikoski: La mode est basée sur le changement. J’ai apprécié de défi de la créativité au sein d’une structure restreinte. Je suis bon quand il s’agit d’imposer ma vision et la transmettre au consommateur. Après tout je suis un designer et non pas un artiste.
KER MER: Comment est-ce que le public français réagit à la culture finnoise?
Tuomas Merikoski: Les Finnois possèdent une positivité innée, et les gens réagissent à cela. En Finlande nous vivons une grande partie de l’année dans l’obscurité, et ne voyons la lumière qu’en été. C’est un univers très extrême et contrasté. C’est la raison pour laquelle la plupart des gens perçoivent le design scandinave comme du noir et blanc, minimaliste et dénué d’émotion. C’est ce mythe que je souhaite démanteler à travers Aalto.
KER MER: Êtes vous soucieux de l’environnement?
Tuomas Merikoski: Nous vivons très près de la nature en Finlande. Je suis fasciné de voir comment la nature est relative au chao. La Nature peut être violente, et impossible à contenir quand elle déploie toute sa puissance. C’est ce à quoi nous assistons avec le changement climatique. C’est ce déséquilibre dans la nature qui risque de nous détruire.
KER MER: Quelle est votre approche quant à la durabilité dans la mode?
Tuomas Merikoski: Je pense que les gens en ont assez qu’on leur rebatte les oreilles avec la durabilité. C’est devenu une affaire politique complexe. L’écologie devrait faire partie intégrante de notre éducation et de notre culture. Cela devrait participer à l’élaboration de projets créatifs dans ce domaine et il faut que ce soit une évidence que tout ce que l’on achète a été conçu et fabriqué intelligemment. Si l’on veut que le monde change, il faut comment par soi-même. Chez Aalto nous upcyclons systématiquement et éliminons le « gaspillage stupide». L’écologie doit faire partie intégrante dans l’industrie de la mode.
KER MER: Quels sont les matières de prédilection d’AALTO?
Tuomas Merikoski: Nous utilisons beaucoup de laine. C’est une belle matière, facile à travailler. Elle se développe naturellement, et facile à recycler et s’auto-régénère ! Le coton organique est de plus en plus courant et son prix est pratiquement le même que le coton non bio et c’est une bonne chose. Nous n’utilisons pas beaucoup le lin, ce que nos client asiatique ne comprennent pas.
KER MER: Et des matériaux organiques ou recyclés?
Tuomas Merikoski: Il n’est pas réaliste pour une petite entreprise d’adopter des matériaux 100% recyclés. Ironiquement, ils sont plus chers. La mode est très axée sur le consommateur, il est difficile de produire quelque chose qui ne coûte pas plus cher au consommateur. Le consommateur ne juge que à quoi ressemble le produit final, pas comment il a été fabriqué.
KER MER: Parlez-nous de votre collaboration avec KER MER et L-Jeandot
Tuomas Merikoski: J’aime la nature et l’eau qui est mon élément préféré. Aalto signifie vague en finnois ; dans le sens d’une manière innovante de faire les choses. C’est en parfaite synergie ave KER MER. Ceci est reflété dans ma dernière collection Beach Beasts. La femme Aalto est inspirée par l’eau, elle est à l’image de la femme mythique du XXIe siècle Corto Maltese. Toutes les références sont liées à la vie marine, du bonnet rouge de Jacques Cousteau à l’incroyable construction « Strandbeest » de Theo Jansen. L’inspiration vient de l’île secrète dans le film « La Plage » et se reflète dans les sacs fabriqués en France à partir de voiles recyclées par la Voilerie Jeandot.
KER MER: Quels ont été les principaux défis de cette collaboration ?
Tuomas Merikoski: Nous n’avons pas participé dans cette collaboration uniquement pour le fun ; nous souhaitons soutenir la mission de KER MER. Il ne s’agit pas d’une expérience unique mais le début de notre histoire. Notre premier défi était d’être créatif pour trouver la meilleure utilisation de la toile de voiles de bateaux. Les voiles que nous avons récupérées avaient été exposées pendant 20 ans aux vents et au sel marin. Leur texture s’en est trouvée durcie. Or nos vêtements pour femmes sont souples et fluides. Nous avons alors décidé de commencer à élaborer des sacs et des chapeaux. Le second défi est de mettre en place un bon concept commercial. Il faut que cette collaboration soit commercialement viable afin d’être durable. Nous verrons le retour sur cette collection pour voir comment elle pourra évoluer.
KER MER: Avez-vous songé au prochain projet KER MER x L. Jeandot ?
Tuomas Merikoski: Nous aimerions faire quelque chose de plus important et plus consistant. Peut-être un imperméable.
KER MER: Que va apporter la prochaine vague à AALTO ?
Tuomas Merikoski: Nous sommes établis entre deux continents principaux ; l’Europe et l’Asie. Nous espérons conquérir les USA. Et le 8e continent et le plus important que constitue internet !
Texte: Jean Grogan
Traduction: Rola Cusson
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