Les Convictions Écologiques D’AALTO
Derrière la marque AALTO se cache Tuomas Merikoski.
Un jeune créateur finlandais dont la démarche créative est intimement liée à des préoccupations écologiques.
C’est cette même sensibilité pour la nature et sa préservation qui anime la femme AALTO ; une femme de caractère, libre et engagée avec une quête pour un confort et une créativités éhiques.
Les débuts de Tuomas Merikoski
Né à Tampere, une ville industrielle coincée entre deux immenses lacs au centre de la Finlande, rien ne prédestinait Tuomas Merikoski à se consacrer à la mode.
Si ce n’est qu’en se passionnant pour la musique, notamment le hip-hop, le jeune Finlandais s’amusait à chiner des vêtements vintage pour s’inventer un look adapté. Tuomas avoue qu’à l’époque il n’avait aucun modèle de créateur en tête tant il était absorbé par ses activités musicales.
Et puis un jour il décide d’entreprendre des études de stylisme et découvre avec émerveillement ses nouvelles idoles: Margiela, Alaïa, Miu Miu…
En total novice, il s’inscrit dans une école de mode en Finlande (il était le seul garçon de la classe!) et, lors d’un programme d’échange, il se retrouve à Paris qu’il ne quitte plus. Son diplôme de l’Institut de la mode en poche, il fait des passages remarqués dans le studio de création homme chez Givenchy puis chez Louis Vuitton.
AALTO est l’expression d’une identité finlandaise réalisée grâce un savoir-faire français.
Son premier succès:
En 2014, Tuomas décide de voler de ses propres ailes et lance sa marque AALTO. Il peut ainsi exprimer librement ses créations inspirées de la jeunesse finlandaise underground. Puis il se présente au concours de l’Andam. Bien lui en a pris puisqu’il se retrouve sous les lumières de la rampe en tant que finaliste du prestigieux Prix LVMH.
La planète mode découvre alors le génie de ce créateur à l’esprit libre et aux convictions écologiques inébranlables.
Ses convictions:
Certes il y en a d’autres à l’instar de Stella McCartney qui sont des jusqu’au-boutistes de l’écologie: pas de fourrure, pas de cuir… Mais Tuomas a une approche plus raisonnée du problème lié à l’exploitation des animaux. Il privilégie plutôt le traitement éthique de ces derniers à l’interdiction pure et simple de l’usage de matières animales.
Il prône ainsi une manière de consommer plus qualitative que quantitative.
Le jeune créateur s’est également engagé dans un processus de recyclage créatif ; En témoigne un des looks d’une de ses dernières collections.
Partenariat avec la société Repack. Le principe est simple, les sacs d’emballages peuvent être recyclés jusqu’à 20 fois. Le consommateur, une fois son colis reçu, retourne son emballage gratuitement à Repack qui le confie à AALTO. À charge pour le designer de métamorphoser ces rebus de packaging en d’élégantes créations.
Son inspiration:
Son pays natal bien sûr, une contrée pleine de contrastes à commencer par la nature; journées très courtes en hiver qui deviennent interminables en été.
Le comportement tout aussi contrasté d’une jeunesse d’apparence réservée et policée qui n’hésite pas à verser dans les excès notamment concernant la consommation de l’alcool. Tuomas Merikoski exprime sa vision du design scandinave qui selon lui est tout sauf lisse et sage.
En somme, AALTO est l’expression d’une identité finlandaise réalisée grâce un savoir-faire français.
Son style:
Tuomas Merikoski a réussi le pari d’élaborer des silhouettes très conceptuelles mais en même temps très portables!
Des pièces architecturales qui reflètent parfaitement le côté fonctionnel adoubé par les Finlandais. Si certaines pièces paraissent à première vue brutes, on y décèle toujours une certaine sophistication. Un style plein de contrastes!
Rola
Credits photos Jouko Lehtola (artiste finlandais)
Jouko Lehtola Foundation
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