Margiela
Le sacre de l’homme invisible
Parfois on se demande si Martin Margiela existe vraiment ! Le mystérieux créateur belge dont personne ne connaît le visage fascine depuis plus de 30 ans.
À la fin des années 80 alors que la mode met en valeur les courbes féminines, Martin Margiela détonne avec des silhouettes minimalistes, androgynes.
Il ose déstructurer le vêtement pour le remonter selon une composition toute personnelle.
De son physique et de sa vie privée on ne sait rien ! Les rares interviews de lui ont été réalisées à distance, souvent par écrit.
Des propos recueillis où le designer s’exprime à la troisième personne du pluriel. Un « nous » sincère qui inclut ses équipes.
Des équipes qui sont tenues de partager la discrétion du maître. Vêtus de blouses blanches, employés et membres du studio n’ont jamais vendu la mèche en dignes gardiens de l’anonymat du plus célèbre des créateurs belges.
Ce pionnier du Upcycling a depuis belle lurette su faire de la récup’ un art. Dès ses débuts il bouscule les codes en travaillant des pièces souvent chinées qu’il retravaille et transforme en des silhouettes avant-gardistes. Ourlets effilochés, tenues faussement usées, chaussures maculées d’une boue indélébile… Depuis que Martin Margiela a lancé la tendance, on n’a plus rien inventé de nouveau !
À une époque où la standardisation est de mise et où les logos s’affichent, les vêtements Martin Margiela arborent une étiquette blanche vierge cousue de quatre points.
Margiela ; Les Années Hermès
Si Hermès a toujours eu une image lisse et cossue, la maison a su se réinventer régulièrement en faisant appel au génie de créateurs audacieux tels que JP Gaultier et Martin Margiela. De 1997 à 2003 la célèbre maison du Faubourg avait confié la direction artistique au créateur belge.
Le Musée des Arts Décoratifs de Paris consacre une exposition à cette surprenante et féconde collaboration. Une exposition dont la direction artistique est assurée par Martin Margiela himself !
Tout au long des douze collections de prêt-à-porter femme qu’il a élaborées pour Hermès, Martin Margiela a su créer une identité qui diffère sensiblement des collections conçues pour sa marque éponyme. Confort, sensualité et allure intemporelle pour Hermès alors qu’il privilégie les coupes construites-déconstruites et les matières recyclées pour Maison Martin Margiela. Un dialogue entre ces deux univers que le visiteur découvre dès l’entrée de l’exposition.
Tout au long du parcours ponctué d’une centaine de silhouettes, photos et vidéos, on navigue entre l’orange d’Hermès et le blanc de la Maison Martin Margiela.
On découvre ainsi comment le créateur flamand a su exprimer son génie dans une maison à l’ADN basée sur l’épure et les matériaux nobles alors que dans sa propre maison il privilégiait les créations conceptuelles et subversives.
Si aujourd’hui John Galliano adopte la discrétion de son prédécesseur aux commandes de la Maison Martin Margiela, ce dernier a quitté sa maison il y dix ans déjà. Un départ en pleine gloire que Martin Margiela a eu le courage d’assumer tout simplement parce qu’il pensait avoir tout exprimé.
Il ne reste plus qu’à explorer les vingt ans de création de ce génie de la mode au Musée des Arts Décoratifs à Paris.
Du 22 mars au 2 septembre 2018
Rola
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