Fête Impériale
L’univers bucolique de Laura Gauthier
Un univers où la nature est omniprésente à travers une profusion de motifs végétaux. La passion de Laura Gauthier pour la botanique lui été transmise par une grand-mère adulée qui s’adonnait avec amour au jardinage. Peut-être est-ce aussi l’héritage d’un célèbre aïeul qui n’est autre que Le Nôtre, génial architecte des jardins du Château de Versailles à l’époque de Louis XIV ?
Toujours est-il que lorsque l’on pousse la porte de l’immeuble du 28 de la rue du Roi de Sicile au cœur du quartier du Marais, on a le sentiment de s’enfoncer dans une forêt virtuelle. Les vêtements se fondent dans le papier peint qui en reprend le même motif végétal. Il s’agit de l’imprimé « Appolonie » créé à l’occasion de la 2e collection. Un motif devenu un intemporel de la maison.
Si Laura Gauthier est fascinée par la nature, elle n’hésite pas à explorer d’autres thèmes, à commencer par l’histoire. Avec tout de même une époque de prédilection ; celle du Second Empire. L’époque où Paris a entamé sa grande transformation à l’initiative de Napoléon III et du Baron Haussmann.
Dans l’atelier-boutique de Fête Impériale on découvre des collections qui font fi du rythme immuable des saisons ; des intemporels que l’on porte été comme hiver, des pièces en laine qui dédient les tendances hiver après hiver, des imprimés exclusifs qui se déclinent aussi bien en vêtements qu’en papiers peints ! Parmi ces derniers, on découvre avec étonnement un imprimé baptisé « jardin défendu » élaboré conjointement avec Craig Wheatley designer textile et ancien directeur du studio de Christian Lacroix ; « Un monde fantasmagorique où la botanique révèle des aspects quelques peu irrévérencieux, tel ce jardin d’Eden où Eve est absente, remplacée par un Adam bis ! » précise la créatrice.
KER MER a rencontré Laura Gauthier dans son atelier du Marais.
KER MER. Pourquoi Fête Impériale ?
Laura Gauthier. Il s’agit des fêtes données sous Napoléon III où se côtoyaient aristocrates, hommes politiques, intellectuels, artistes mais aussi comédiens et courtisanes. Un mélange des genres tout à fait nouveau pour l’époque ! J’aimais cette idée de mélange des genres ainsi que l’esprit très parisien de ces fêtes. La seconde partie du XIXe siècle est marquée par l’essor des arts et des sciences. En même temps sous Napoléon III Paris se transforme, se modernise et voit naitre les premiers grands magasins qui proposent une mode accessible. J’avais envie de parler de cette époque qui me passionne… et en même temps évoquer la fête ! Aujourd’hui on a envie de légèreté, d’esprit positif. Je pense que le vêtement doit être considéré comme quelque chose de léger qui donne aux gens la liberté et permet aux femmes de se sentir bien, prendre confiance en elles et faire ce qu’elles ont envie de faire sans trop se prendre au sérieux.
KER MER. Il faut avoir une certaine dose de connaissances historiques pour s’intéresser à l’époque du Second Empire et ses fêtes impériales !
Laura Gauthier. Cela me vient de ma grand-mère qui a joué un rôle important dans ma vie. Elle était professeur d’histoire de l’art et de philosophie. J’ai toujours baigné là-dedans. Cette période m’a toujours intéressée. Mais le déclic s’est produit lorsqu’un ami cinéaste a réalisé un court métrage avec Fanny Ardant. Le tournage avait eu lieu dans l’hôtel particulier de Liane de Pougy, une célèbre courtisane, partie de rien et qui a su s’élever au plus haut de la société parisienne. En assistant au tournage j’ai été impressionnée par l’intérieur de cet hôtel particulier où la décoration était empreinte du culte de la personnalité de l’illustre propriétaire. Cette période m’inspire beaucoup notamment pour les imprimés que je dessine. Chacune de mes collections possède un imprimé phare qui dévoile l’idée et le thème de la collection.
KER MER. Comment avez-vous imaginé votre collection été 2018?
Laura Gauthier. En terme de coupe et de matières je travaille sur le côté libérateur ; structure floue et soie, ça évoque la sensualité. On peut ainsi avoir un vêtement couvrant tout en révélant la féminité. Dans ma nouvelle collection printemps-été J’ai voulu révéler les différentes facettes de la soie ; velours de soie et mousseline de soie…
KER MER. Vous êtes très sensible à l’écologie et les valeurs éthiques. Comment cela se traduit-il dans vos créations ?
Laura Gauthier. Je n’ai recours à des matières animales, que lorsque celles-ci ne nécessitent pas d’agresser ou de tuer la bête.
Par exemple pour obtenir la texture de l’angora, j’ai trouvé en Loire Atlantique une ferme qui élève des lapins nourris aux graines de mimosa.
Ce régime alimentaire provoque la chute du poil naturellement quand celui-ci devient trop touffu ! le poil repousse bien sûr pour retomber et ainsi de suite…
Je suis très sensible aux conditions d’élevage des animaux et la toxicité des colorants.
Le Gilet « Léontia » dessiné pour la 2e collection et devenu depuis un intemporel que l’on retrouve toutes les saisons est donc réalisé avec cette laine. De plus les pièces sont tricotées par des retraitées qui ont ainsi un revenu supplémentaire. Je n’en fais que 30 pièces par saison.
Pour la petite histoire, l’une de ces dames est venue avec son mari me livrer les gilets car avec l’argent que les tricots lui ont rapporté elle a pu se payer un week-end à Paris ! C’était très touchant !
Rola
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